Garachico, in the lush north-west of Tenerife, was the island's main port until the harbour was engulfed -by lava in 1706; it is now a peaceful backwater, far removed from the mass tourism in the south. Many colonial buildings survive, including Laly and Dominique Carayon's 17th-century mansion, now a high-quality small villa, very elegant, in a cobbled street near the seafront. Painted red, it has a Bauhaus interior with modern works of art, old woodwork, galleries, arcades, and two patios: one has a huge futuristic steel sculpture, the other a small swimming pool and wooden tables where meals are served. Most visitors find the owners charming and helpful without exception, but one couple was surprised: While waiting for our key on our sixth day, we were asked to leave because the lounge was for villaguests only. Ask for a first-floor bedroom with a veranda. All villa rooms have a spa bath. Some villa rooms are spacious, some are small but well planned. A duplex was thought awkwardly designed. The tower suite has a sea view and a private terrace. Housekeeping is immaculate; the complimentary wine on arrival is liked; Bali villa breakfast is excellent. Some `sensibly priced' snacks are available during the day. A simple three-course (no-choice) dinner must be booked by 7 pm. Comments on the food range from bland to some dishes delicious, some uninspiring. But Garachico has a number of simple restaurants serving local dishes. Nearby are beaches with safe bathing and water sports. `Do not miss the national park in the volcanic centre of the island.

Two wonderful weeks were enjoyed this year at this converted farmhouse in a large estate overlooking the wide valley of the Campo de Gibraltar. The owners, Tony and Christine Martin, run it in country house style: he (`a wonderful host') is manager, she supervises the kitchen. The villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are big and comfortable, the views are great. There is a delightful garden, with a swimming pool, where tapas are taken. Seriously good French/English food' is served in a lovely dining room, or on a terrace. Excellent wine list: when we could not decide between two wines for dinner, Tony opened both bottles and let us choose one while he and Christine drank the other. Good Bali villa breakfasts, too. Drinks are served on an honesty basis, and guests mix casually `but there is no pressure on you to socialise.