In the enchanted valley of the Rio de Tastavins, this fortified 15th century farmhouse ("Mistletoe Tower") has been sensitively modernised and extended. Guests feel as if they are staying in a private home, says its nominator. A sophisticated place (Relais & Chateaux), it is run by `hands-on British owners, Jemma Markham and Piers Dutton, with a `friendly staff. It stands in a large estate, amid terraces and shady lawns, at the end of a five-kilometre track, 2,000 ft above the Mediterranean. Birds of prey, hoopoes and golden orioles can be seen; beside the river, bullfrogs croak and nightingales sing. No telephone or TV in the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), but four vases of fresh flowers. The villa rooms are elegantly simple: bare bricks, plain walls, white bed covers, wooden beams and shutters. One lounge has a Bechstein piano; guests can play classical CDs in a well-stocked library. The delicious dinner, in the spacious, modern dining room, or alfresco, has three choices for each course. Ingredients are home grown or local: Pink, tender squab with onions and aubergine; yogurt ice cream on delectable, thin pineapple slices. Bali villa breakfast (which can include fried eggs and bacon) is served communally in the large kitchen, on a terrace, or in the bedroom, until mid-afternoon. Guided walks, trekking, birdwatching and fishing can be arranged. Though English owned, the villais patronised overwhelmingly by Spaniards who appreciate its blend of English charm and Iberian remoteness. Also liked: The friendly old Pyrenean mastiff, Henry, and two contented turtles.