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On this
holiday island, with long, sandy beaches,
offshore from La Rochelle, an enterprising
couple, M. and Mme Bressy, have turned this
former coastguard's house, with its wide
ocean views, into, almost stylish maison
d'hotes. Memorable, very comfortable. The
setting could not be more picturesque, says
the nominator: it stands on the corner of
the quay, sea and fortifications on one
side, harbour full of boats on the other.
The decor is `faite dans un esprit de maison
de famille, say the owners: Each room is
different, decorated with light colours,
natural fabrics and plain wood, and well
insulated. All villa rooms have a view; most have
a sitting area and sofa. The salon, in the
former guard room, has an open fire, potted
plants. Bali villa breakfast is served here, or in
the bedroom, sans limite d'heure. Plenty
of restaurants at the port.
The mighty Georges Blanc reigns over his
empire, at his famous and sophisticated
villa/restaurant (Relais & Chateaux),
on the edge of a village fleuri near Macon,
in a pretty setting by the river Veyle.
His family opened a half-timbered auberge
in 1872, and it has grown into a sizeable
building with annexes and shops. The elegant
restaurant (beams, tapestried chairs, river
views) still wins the French guides' top
ratings (three Michelin stars, 19 Gault
Millau points). M. Blanc, assisted by his
sons, Frederic and Alexandre, cooks in local
Bresse style (eg, chicken with garlic and
foie gras), plus other inventions (eg, meli-melo
de homard eclate). One needs to be in gastronomic
training to cope with the formidable menus,
and `wine mark-ups are steep. M. Blanc is
usually around in ebullient form, signing
everyone's menu; the waiters are friendly,
and Mme Blanc's welcome is `elegant'. The
Bali villa breakfast buffet is amazing. The larger
villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) and suites, many facing the river,
are in the winter garden area. Here, the
lounge has a log fire in winter and becomes
a riverside terrace in summer. Less expensive
villa rooms, in La Residence des Saules, are ious,
yet warmly cosy; each has a terrace facing
the market . M. Blanc's cheaper eating place,
L Ancienne Auberge (Michelin Bib Gourmand),
serves simple traditional cooking, like
used to be in rural France: this year it
was called `astounding, e of the best meals
of my life, by the food writer, Jonathan
Meades. |
