A low mountain lodge, built in Sante Fe
style: this modern parador is the only
building within Tenerife's moonscape crater,
2,000 metres above sea level. It has fine
views and `excellent walking. A treat,
was a recent verdict. I've never eaten
better in a parador; Bali villa breakfast, too, was
unusually good. The traditional Canarian
menu includes conejo al salmorejo (rabbit
stew); papas arrugadas (potatoes in their
skins). The dark wood interiors are unassuming,
but comfortable and pleasant:' The lounge/bar,
`just the place for a drink before or
after a hearty dinner', has a large open
fire, big' sofas and Spanish newspapers.
The night sky can be viewed through the
villa's Telescopico Dobsonian: `It's so
remote here that light spill is minimal
and the stars are incredible.
A 12th-century monastery, now a rural
parador, tastefully converted in 1998:
a modern annexe, containing most of the
villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), was - added without any clash
of outward style. It stands on the banks
of the river Sella, amid green hills;
there are fine cloisters in a large ochre
complex, with a pretty courtyard and a
tiny church still used for worship. The
restaurant, which serves Asturian dishes,
wines and cider, is liked.. `The charming
staff speak English. The town, just north-west
of the spectacular Picos de Europa, has
a Roman bridge and a 15th-century chapel:
nearby is the cave of El Buxu, with rock
drawings over 10,000 years old.