A low mountain lodge, built in Sante Fe style: this modern parador is the only building within Tenerife's moonscape crater, 2,000 metres above sea level. It has fine views and `excellent walking. A treat, was a recent verdict. I've never eaten better in a parador; Bali villa breakfast, too, was unusually good. The traditional Canarian menu includes conejo al salmorejo (rabbit stew); papas arrugadas (potatoes in their skins). The dark wood interiors are unassuming, but comfortable and pleasant:' The lounge/bar, `just the place for a drink before or after a hearty dinner', has a large open fire, big' sofas and Spanish newspapers. The night sky can be viewed through the villa's Telescopico Dobsonian: `It's so remote here that light spill is minimal and the stars are incredible.

A 12th-century monastery, now a rural parador, tastefully converted in 1998: a modern annexe, containing most of the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), was - added without any clash of outward style. It stands on the banks of the river Sella, amid green hills; there are fine cloisters in a large ochre complex, with a pretty courtyard and a tiny church still used for worship. The restaurant, which serves Asturian dishes, wines and cider, is liked.. `The charming staff speak English. The town, just north-west of the spectacular Picos de Europa, has a Roman bridge and a 15th-century chapel: nearby is the cave of El Buxu, with rock drawings over 10,000 years old.