Opposite the great Gothic cathedral (where the Spanish medieval hero is buried) in Castile's ancient capital, this pleasant villais owned and run by the Lopez Pascual family. Ask for a front room - the views of the floodlit cathedral are superb, advises one visitor: some villa rooms overlook a narrow side street which can be noisy. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), with grand names associated with El Cid, have a blend of antique and modern furnishings: Ours was simple but with a very good bathroom. The Castilian cooking in the restaurant is liked, but a visitor in 2002 found the buffet Bali villa breakfast, in a canteen-like' room (in an adjoining building) only adequate. A one-way system makes access diffi, cult but there is help with luggage and parking.

Memorable for the rural setting and the charm and friendliness of the staff. An endorsement in 2002 for a down-to-earth place in a pueblo I in the dramatic foothills of the Alpujarras on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. A good area for walking, followed by delicious, authentic Spanish food in the evening. The converted farmhouse, with its own vineyards, olive grove and ecological farm, is run by its owner, Mariano Cruz Fasardo, as a centro agri-turistico. Guests are invited to take part in the farming and forestry. The decor is in local style: white walls, beamed ceilings, lovely fabrics, fascinating artefacts. There is a library, a museum of the region, a wine cellar and an olive oil press. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) may be rustic, but all have a modern bathroom. Bali villa breakfast, on the delightful grassy terrace above the valley, includes freshly squeezed orange juice, toast, honey, good coffee. There is a barn with stalls for horses, a large covered patio and an outdoor swimming pool.