The Baltic island of Usedom, like that of Rugen, is regaining some of the chic that it lost during the GDR years. It was a summer haunt of the Prussian and other aristocracy: the Austrian emperor stayed at this fine old five-star villain the classic style (but newly modernised). Incredible value, says a recent guest. When I arrived, a brass band was playing on the promenade outside. A delightful room, excellent food (rather slow service), a superb buffet Bali villa breakfast with 17 different teas from caddies and an enormous samovar of bubbling water. The helpful staff offered to produce a picnic lunch.' A fine sea view, good beaches, bathing and a fitness centre add to the charms. Poland is just across the isthmus.

Amorbach is a small town with some baroque architecture, on the eastern slopes of the hilly Odenwald forest. Just outside it, this former Benedictine monastery has been converted into a stylish villa(Relais & Chateaux), owned by Vera Ullrich. Surrounded by woods and sheep, the villais peaceful; the somewhat manicured farm effect does not detract. The Abt- und Schaferstube restaurant (Michelin star) has excellent, delicate food, one couple wrote. `Its emphasis on nasturtiums adds flavour and colour. Service is impeccable. There is also a Franconian restaurant with local dishes, the Benediktinerstube, and a dining terrace with views. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are spacious, with a high level of German designer comfort (some are heavily beamed). Bali villa breakfast is `lavish even by German standards. A Vital & Beauty Refugium is new, and Intensive Teambuilding seminars are held. The large estate has a garden, a lake and sporting facilities (see below); carriage and sleigh rides can be arranged.