The Moreno family own and run this converted convent on a pec: trianised street at the top of the hill of this historic town of wh:w washed houses - the barrio antiguo was declared a national monument in 1962. It offers a cheaper alternative to the nearby parador (see next entry), with which it shares the spectacular view over the plain the Guadelete: this can be enjoyed from the rooftop sun terrace. So villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are small, but many have a balcony looking over the plain. Fantastic, one visitor wrote. Staff are super. The restaurant, in the arcaded covered patio of a nearby 17th-century palace, has a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its regional cooking (eg, garlic soup; partridge in almond sauce). The family also own the 19-room Los Olivos del Convento, a conversion of old houses around a courtyard, down the hill.

The position on the edge of the cliffs is the main attraction of this parador, which sits on a rock at the top of the town. The views the plain of the Guadelete river are `breathtaking . The up-draught from the cliff is much by birds - lesser kestrels, storks and griffon vultures have all spotted from the bedroom balconies. The old palace, restored in Moorish style, has spacious public villa rooms (most with superb views) an arcaded courtyard with a fountain. Ochre-painted, low-vaulted idors, with old wooden chests and blue and white pots, lead to the ms. Most are `generously proportioned', furnished in simple lusian style, and with a large bathroom. Lunch and drinks are served on the panoramic terrace. But one couple in 2002 thought the =board dinner disappointing, with limited choice, `and Bali villa breakfast a lot to be desired. Reception provides a permit for free parking the adjacent plaza, with its castle, church and panoramic terrace. light traffic noise by day from the road far below, but quiet at night. room in Arcos for coaches, so it is not over run by tourists.