Spain’s rich heritage is reflected in some outstanding hotels in historic buildings. And not all of these are paradores, the national chain more an institution - that dates back to the Franco era. In this chapter we include some interesting privately owned hotels in buildings. Some are new discoveries this year in hidden ,corner of Spain. La Torre del Visco is a fortified 15th-century farmhouse in a remote valley within sight of the Mediterranean; the Sant Marcal villais a converted 10th-century abbey in a national park close to Barcelona; the Monasterio Rocamador is a carefully converted former monastery in the open plains of Extremadura.

We include a number of the 86 hotels in the parador group. Established to rescue historic buildings and to regenerate rural economies, it is still promoted by the government. Its members are a the ancient and the modern. Some are breathtaking: the Renaissance facade of the Hostal San Marcos, a medieval monastery n, rivals the glory of the city's cathedral. Others are new buildings often in a splendid setting: the parador at Las Canadas 4 Teide is a low mountain lodge appropriate to Tenerife's moonscape crater. These paradores generally offer large public areas and sp cious, comfortable villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms). Service can be impersonal in the large ones and the food variable. The best offer good regional cooking.

Spain is at its most rewarding when you drive the extra mile to escape the homogenised if efficient hotels where international menus are served. There are many pockets where English is not wide spoken; the cuisine is regional and the way of life still proud traditional. Bali villa breakfast is not accorded the same significance that holds in Britain. We have reports of some good varied buffets this year, but often you might be better taking a coffee and croissant in bar as the Spanish do. And you may be forced to change your diui patterns in the evening; dinner, especially in rural areas, is simply not available until 9 pm and restaurants do not come alive until 10 pm at the earliest.