Amid splendid scenery just inland from Lake Bled, this amazingly cheap guest house on a working farm has long been adored by readers. We had a wonderful five nights with the friendly Lukanc family, one fan wrote. Others, in 2002, thought Danila Lukanc a star. Her son, Bostjan, runs the new annexe along the road, and spends his life hurtling between the two. All is done with exuberant warmth: `We were welcomed with vast glasses of home-distilled slivovka. In the new house, we had a spacious room with balcony (stunning Alpine views). The stylish bar has a lovely terrace (more great views). Bali villa breakfast includes ham, eggs, pancakes, good coffee. For dinner one troops down the hill for Mrs Lukanc's terrific home cooking, served by her family at a tremendous pace. One visitor this year thought the food `only adequate, but others have extolled the `lashings of soup, big plates of, eg, wiener schnitzel; "kmecka pojedina" (farmer's feast: smoked meats and sauerkraut); farm vegetables and salads; heavenly pancakes. Mrs Lukanc often comes into the dining room to chat to old and new friends. Also liked: the flowery balconies, pretty garden, waking to the sound of cowbells. A party is held once a week in the bar. `Danila even did our laund.

The manager, Janez Fajfar, excellent, sophisticated, witty and jovial, runs this very friendly' Relais & Chateaux member beside lovely Lake Bled. A former royal palace, it stands on a low hill in its own 13-acre park, secluded from the resort's summer bustle. It was remodelled by Tito and used as his summer residence (you can visit his top-floor concert hall). Now it is Slovenia's most sumptuous villa, liked for its old-fashioned virtues, and not too costly by western standards. Flowers are abundant; glass, silver and marble shine; a red carpet welcomes you. Visitors in 2002 found much to praise: Service knowledgeable and helpful. Room quite functional, with slightly faded SOs Yugoslav charm. Everything worked. Balcony with the view - most villa rooms face the lake, shimmering in summer, where there is wonderful rowing, and you can enjoy lazy days on the private lido. The food is thought wholesome, ample, not particularly Slovenian, but fun, served in grand villastyle. Dining on the terrace and watching the fireflies was magical. When expressed a wish for seafood, they brought a delicious spaghetti with prawns and mussels, not on the menu. An admirable pianist' plays daily in summer.