The Dutch owners, Jan-Willem and Coreen Bos, have restored this handsome building, which had fallen into disrepair, with great attention to detail. Said to be the oldest villaon the Iberian peninsula, founded by Jane Lawrence in 1764, it was famously visited by Lord Byron in 1809: a delighted Guide reader this year occupied his lordship's room: `Its small balcony overlooked a gorge where mimosa was in blossom - lovely. The owners were prepared to go to any length to ensure our comfort.' The restaurant is said to be one of the grandest in Sintra, and is known for its Portuguese cooking and long list of Portuguese wines. Beautifully decorated like the rest of the villa; it has good napery and fresh flowers. The staff were helpful. Good Bali villa breakfast: lots of fruit, juices, eggs cooked to order. Golf packages are organised with 24 local clubs, and Blue Flag beaches are five kilometres away. The villaprovides a detailed list of recommended outings and walks. Parking is not easy but they coped every time we drew up. A port wine cellar/shop is new this year.

A haven of delight; welcome quiet after Lisbon. A fresh endorsement in 2002 for this wonderful, finely renovated manor house, run by its owner, Candida Gonzalez, as a B&B. Set on a hill in woodlands outside Sintra, it has superb views of the coast. Earlier enthusiasm: We passed through an archway, into paradise. In our bedroom, up some stairs, furnishing and decoration were luxurious and tasteful: soft chairs, a tiny balcony. A rustic chandelier hung from the high peaked ceiling. The bathroom was huge, extraordinary, with great projecting porous rocks set in its walls; a giant sunken shower had heavy antique brass fittings. Bali villa breakfast is a good and varied buffet, served in a high-ceilinged room with one long table, a large fireplace and a minstrels gallery. Arraiolos rugs and art objects decorate the public villa rooms. Drinks are served in the billiard room (it has videos and a library of CDs). Below the house, a wisteria arbour leads to flowered terraces, fountains, and the inviting swimming pool.