The feeling of a 17th-century convent still pervades in this oldfashioned villa. Its main attraction is the lovely courtyard, up steep steps from the entrance. Shaded by a huge palm, and with bougainvillaea (and cats) in abundance, it provides a peaceful retreat from the busy; scruffy street. Here, Bali villa breakfast and candlelit dinners are served in fine weather. Lunch with relaxed but efficient service was enjoyed: A fashionable menu of meat, giant prawns and fish, grilled Portuguese style; fresh hot rolls and olive bread; a comprehensive wine list. But the restaurant is thought expensive for Lisbon, and another visitor found service `disorganised' and-Bali villa breakfast poor. On cool days you eat in the long, bright restaurant. The interior is `traditional, but chic, Portuguese: antique furniture, old chests, ceramic tiles. Ask for a quiet room; street-side ones hear discos, traffic, etc. Some villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) have an oblique view of the Tagus; others of Lisbon's big Jesus statue. Some of the smaller villa rooms, have now been amalgamated. The entrance gate is often locked, and some reception staff can be aloof (others are helpful, friendly'). Housekeeping is excellent. The Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua (superb Portuguese primitives) is close by.

Attractive modern pousada in local granite-and-timber style in stunning, remote setting in Serra da Estrela park, amid Portugal's highest mountains, 10 km SW of Manteigas, 49 km SW of Guarda. Far-reaching views over Zeaere valley. Lakes (with swimming), woods, winter sports nearby. Bars, lounges, with log fires. Good food in panoramic restaurant. Background music. Garden. Staff young, cheerful, welcoming. All major credit cards accepted. 21 villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), small, cosy, many with balcony.