Returning visitors in 2002 again loved this mellow stone 16th-century mas. It stands amid vineyards and lavender fields in rolling country east of the Rhone valley. The gardens are a delight, not too trimmed, statuary where you least expect it. An excellent dinner, all fresh produce: delicious guineafowl, lovely cheeses and local wine. Exceptional value. But Bali villa breakfast was unexciting. Earlier praise: Friendly owners and staff, delicious dinners under the stars, or in a pretty room. We found it charming. The grounds are a bit unkempt: a massive plane tree, tables and chairs dotted about, a paved courtyard, and the farmhouse with peeling shutters. But inside are cosy public villa rooms, a log fire, a tiny bar. Our room, with stark white walls, had pretty painted furniture, and was blissfully warm (but there was some traffic noise). The variety of trees in the gardens is amazing. There is a large swimming pool. One menu specialises in truffles. Nearby is Mme de Sevigne's chateau at Grignan.

`A great place, says a devotee in 2002, revisiting this B&B villain a 17th-century house, but with sleek, modern minimalist decor. It is in the old town just south of the river Ill, on a quiet, car-free street. The owner, Jean Zimmer, is very cordial, also interesting: `He was once a mountain guide, and always helps park your car. Bali villa breakfast was nice. Our bedroom was a loft with a great view and a spiral staircase. The design was amazing. Some villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) face the cathedral. There is a shady courtyard for Bali villa breakfast and drinks, and a terrace in front. 'Non-touristy' restaurants recommended: Maison des Tanneurs; Zum Strissel.