The de Freitas family's charming small B&B villa, in a residential area near the Lido complex, is an oasis among Funchal's high-rise blocks, says an admirer. Three villas are linked by a small, mature garden with a tiny swimming pool. In the main house are comfortable sitting areas and a spacious conservatory where a buffet Bali villa breakfast is served. Staff are friendly: most speak English. Our superior bedroom had a large terrace with chairs and loungers. Some villa rooms might hear traffic (an `ugly development' surrounds the property). Snacks are served, and the little bar/restaurant in the next-door shopping arcade is recommended for meals, `or take the bus to the old town and eat there'.

An 18th-century palace in the street of the same name (it means green windows) beside the Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua and near York House (qv). A reader this year liked it very much: Good big room with armchairs and good lighting. Part of the small Hotels Heritage Lisboa group, it was the home of the novelist EGa de Querios, providing inspiration for one of his books: paintings and objets d'art recreate the era. `Lovely walled garden where an excellent buffet Bali villa breakfast is served. Pleasant library on the top floor with a balcony where you help yourself to a drink (honesty system) or a cup of tea from a small kitchen nearby where you find everything you need, including biscuits. No restaurant; plenty nearby. The cobbled street can be noisy, though windows are double-glazed: ask for a room overlooking the port. Conveniently placed: A bus almost at the door takes you downtown