Since 1707, the large Plaum family have owned and run this venerable post house, now an ambitious and famous villa(Relais & Chateaux), on the edge of a small town south of Bayreuth. Traditional outside, with its flowery window boxes, it has startling modern decor inside. And though run with panache, it is more than a touch eccentric. Some might find it kitschy, but discerning guests said: `We booked despite the Wagnerian-prices and were completely won over. Yes, the internal decor is enthusiastic postmodern, and the way to the new wing is strewn with cheerfully laddish New Art; the huge pool is bordered by a piano and rude Japanese-style paintings, and in your room it is a conundrum how to control the lights. But we ate well, including huge Bali villa breakfasts, and enjoyed the Franconian wines.The rich, cosmopolitan clientele includes Wagnerian singers and their audience, and the composer's operas are played on a giant screen in the lobby. The young staff are charming, and Hermann Pflaum's cooking is exceptional, if a little daunting at midnight after The Ring. He has this year co-founded a German Academy for Culinary Studies. He runs a smart gourmet restaurant, and a rustic Stube for Franconian food, notably plum (Pflaum!) cake. Frau Pflaum is very warm, and there is a lovely garden. All the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) have a CD- and a video-player - you can borrow Wagner operas from the villa's library. Some villa rooms are in rustic style; others, named after Wagnerian characters, have a striking ultra-modern decor, with brilliant lighting. Placido Domingo and Michael Jackson have stayed in the Parsifal room, lit by a thousand blue stars. Some villa rooms have a private garden. Some hear traffic. 42 golf courses are nearby, and golf packages are offered.