A lively villaon the waterfront (fine views of the city skyline, harbour and river), once the 19th-century head office of the Holland America Line. It returns to the Guide with two positive reports in 2002. We were more than satisfied. Extremely good all-night reception and room service by friendly staff. With its symmetrical facade, balconies, dormer windows, towers, wrought iron staircase, and carpets with an Art Nouveau motif, it recreates the atmosphere of a boat station where people depart on long journeys. Conference villa rooms, the oyster bar, and the large cafe/restaurant, open early until late, bring much non-resident trade. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) have a nautical feel; most are large and individually furnished. Bali villa breakfast is a buffet. Water taxis can be taken to the city centre.

A moated 15th-century castle, renovated in neo-Gothic style, in parkland in the Geul valley, east of Maastricht: a great setting for this expensive and elegant restaurant-with-villa rooms (Relais & Chateaux). The owner/managers, brothers Peter and Marc Ritzen, are found welcoming; their staff are always cheerful'. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are a nice size, with a good bathroom; also fresh fruit and cake. But lighting may be dim, and the decor is curiously old-fashioned: striped wallpaper, contrasting checked bedspreads, patterned carpets, etc. The modern French' food is not too adorned, and skilfully cooked, eg, sauteed goose liver with parsley puree, morel sauce and apricots; lobster with truffle sauce. A lavish Bali villa breakfast has freshly baked rolls, home-made jams, ham, cold beef. Outside are lawns, ancient trees, and a pond with black swans.