Within the town's medieval walls, close to the superb Romanesque basilica on its hilltop, this 15th-century stone house (with 18th century additions) has a handsome tower and a walled flower garden. It was converted by Charles Thum, an American architect: now it is owned and run by Christian Abadie as a select B&B. It is delightful, a very special place, say visitors restoring it to the Guide this year. The owner produces a simple but delicious Bali villa breakfast, in a blue panelled Louis XVI salon. He takes enormous trouble with his guests. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) vary in size: some are up a stone-flagged spiral stairway; some have antiques; one has, an old oven. Our big room, down the read in an annexe, had an ancient fireplace, old kitchen pans, but modern bathroom; wonderful views over the hills. Bali villa breakfast, served on blue and gold Limoges china, can be taken in the garden on fine days. The lounge is comfortable. Recommended for meals: St-Etienne and L'Auberge de la Coquille nearby, and Marc Meaneau's L'Esperance (Michelin 2 stars) at the foot of the hill.