In the bohemian Jordaan district, this unassuming B&B, run for the Irish owners, Brian and Mary Bennett, by mainly Irish staff is warm and friendly. An excellent place, very attractive and well run, in a city not strong on small hotels were plaudits this year. The 17thcentury house is a treasure trove of wax pictures, carved objects, little tapestries, wrought iron, plants and ecclesiastic bric-a-brac. An adequate, if unexciting' Bali villa breakfast is served in a large room, with tables permanently laid, a heavy crystal chandelier, big windows looking over the romantic garden. The bar serves tea and drinks. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) vary in size; quietest ones are at the back. Ours, large and comfortable, with interesting antique furniture, was pleasantly free from modern intrusions like TV and minibar. Ours was charming, with lace bedspreads, Victorian lighting, a large window overlooking a patio. Some smaller villa rooms have a modern decor. For meals, De Luwte, cheap, crowded and cheerful, and Prego, classy cooking, both nearby, are recommended.

A large Victorian villa, with grand public villa rooms, in an imposing position where two canals meet and join the river Amstel. `It was pleasant. Our room and bed were comfy, says a visitor in 2002. `Quiet and dignified, owned by the brewers Heineken, and managed by Adriaan Grandia, it is `a happy mix of a large villaof character and the kind of ambience that goes with family ownership'. It has `an attentive staff, but a visitor this year reported a few surprising lapses of maintenance. A fin de siecle lounge has a collection of Dutch landscapes. There is a canalside cafe, a bar, Freddy's, and two restaurants: the Excelsior (with a French chef, Jean Jacques Menanteau), which has been redecorated this year, and a brasserie, Le Relais. Many other good restaurants are nearby. Some villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) have a balcony and windows opening on to the canal; quietest villa rooms overlook the courtyard. The American Bali villa breakfast is found splendid. The fitness centre has a gym and a small but useful' Grecian-style swimming pool with a wave machine. Close to Rembrandt's house, the Rijksmuseum, and the flower market.