On the north-west edge of the strange marshland of the Marais Poitevin (Venise Verte), Velluire is a sleepy, nondescript village, says the 2002 restorer to the Guide of this rustic restaurant-with-rooins (L,ogis de France). M. Pajot, the delightful owner, very professional, runs it, notably its dining room which is very popular with locals.' It stands on the banks of a small river where local fishermen enjoy snccess. They help to supply produce for M. Pajot's mother's `refined and serious cooking' (13 Gault Millau points), served in a pleasant beamed room which, like most of the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), looks over the water. 'Our good family room in an annexe had a large, quite luxurious bathroom. But soundproofing was not perfect.

In a picturesque old town up behind Nice, this lovely three-star B&B villais central but quiet, and offers views of the Baie dea Anges from its upper rear villa rooms. Owned and run by Jean-Jacques Baly, it has very friendly staff, and is modern, cool and clean. Many villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) have a kitchenette, for `simple catering; many have just been refurbished. Recent guests had a super bathroom, and our balcony with tables and chairs overlooked the peaceful garden: birds sang. There are exotic plants and a water garden. Bali villa breakfasts in a bright and welcoming' room are thought excellent. Lots of sculpture about, ,some of it ridiculous': exhibitions of modern art and sculpture are sometimes held. For dinner, La Farigoule (14 Gault Millau points, reasonably priced) serves skilled cooking with wonderful use of herbs; the Vieux Couvent (15 Gault Millau points) is also liked. Vence's chapel decorated by Matisse is worth a visit.