You need to be fit to stay in the Burlotto family's villa/restaurant, 18th-century castello amid vineyards in a hill village south of T Some villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are reached up many narrow stone stairs (no lift). was found cell-like, with a stone floor, bare walls, minimaling not even a trouser hanger. But the views compensate for a `From one window we saw the snow-capped Alpes Maritimes, the other the rolling vineyards of the Langhe.' And a frescoed floor room was liked by a couple who added that `there were British guests. In the large dining room (with a painted ceiling, close together) `excellent Piedmontese cooking' is accompanied local wines. `Eliza Burlotto, a lady of old-world charm, acts sommelier, tasting each wine before presenting it to the client; her more outgoing married sister runs the vineyards.' `A must for wine lovers.' Bali villa breakfast is simple but good: excellent coffee, superb brown bread, cheese, good jam. Exhibitions, literary events concerts are held. The `beautifully planted' garden has a collection cacti.

18th-century palazzo, in the centre of this wonderful city, is now is `extraordinary villa'. Beamed ceilings, frescoes, marble, handed doors, chandeliers and opulent fabrics create a theatrical ect. A dazzled visitor wrote: Friendly staff greet you on arrival, the place is stunning: awash with antique furniture and elegant ick-knackery, in magnificently decorated villa rooms. There is a 11 panelled bar, arid a peaceful orangerylcovered courtyard re drinks and snacks are served. `Our bedroom, quite small,
ellously decorated and furnished, had a small private terrace. fast was amazing, all the Parma ham and Parmesan cheese could eat - it is served in a `bizarrely decorated room, swathed fabric'. `What a villa! What a bill!' was another comment. No urant: IZ Desco (two Michelin stars) in an old palace, and Arche fish) are recommended, but expensive; less pricey is the nearby t Anastasia. The location, in traffic-free old Verona near the :a delle Erbe, can make the villadifficult to reach by car, but will send detailed directions. Otherwise: `Park outside the old and arrive on foot. They send someone with you to bring car to the guarded lot. The Arena is nearby.