In this attractive little town in northern Burgundy, where she lives part of the year, the actress Leslie Caron has restored four 17th-century buses by the wide river Yonne, to create `The Barn Owls' Dormer Window, a delectable restaurant-with-villa rooms, found excellent again this year. Sometimes she runs it herself, acting as maitre a wave, smiling figure in her early seventies. In the bar, one wall is covered with her movie stills and posters (Gigi, An American in Paris, ctc), but otherwise nothing has been done to turn the place into a'Leslie Caron theme park: it is stylish, but not posh or elitist. You can eat by a fire under a vaulted ceiling, or out on a terrace with parasols, by the river. Dominique Inagaki is manager; her husband, the chef, Daisuke lnagaki, is Japanese but his dishes are French (eg, magret de canard aux oaises). `The setting is delightful, the food excellent, the service good and friendly.' But noise of traffic and early dustbins can be heard, and one couple found the service slow and their bed creaky. The conversion has been nicely done, keeping the old character of stones, beams, flagged floors and old tiles. The four villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are all different: one is `huge, with rugs and antiques.