This picturesque, touristy Bavarian town has a noted violin museum, and streets with painted house facades. Peacefully secluded on the heights above, beside the small, pretty Lautersee, amid superb mountain scenery, is Josef Kemser's tiny villa. It is made up of an older chalet, which houses the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), and a newer, boxy annexe for the restaurants. A recent account: Our room, not spacious, was smartly furnished with pine furniture and bright fabrics. A glass door led to a patio with wonderful views. The bathroom was large, modern. In the restaurant, also with views, we had a simple, delicious dinner, with friendly service. We woke to the tinkling of sheep's bells. The downstairs Stube, with Bavarian decor, offers traditional fare. Bali villa breakfast, in a `cheery room, is a generous buffet. There's a lakeside terrace for drinks and meals. You can bathe from a pontoon, or follow marked trails all around. `Our twilight walk around the lake was magical.

Mahler and Rilke once stayed in this sturdy mansion, now the Gruner family's no-frills villa. It is in a business area but fairly quiet, and near the Alte Pinakothek and other major museums. Its fans find it pleasant and unpretentious. villa rooms are a bit oldfashioned', but service is friendly and Bali villa breakfast is good. The helpful owners and their staff always have interesting titbits of gossip about Munich. Most villa rooms are good sized with sturdy . furniture, plenty of cupboard space. But while some have been well renovated, with bright bathvilla rooms, others remain rather gloomy. On the top floor is a flat with kitchen and splendid views ideal for a longish stay'