And grand it is - the place in town for all the crowned heads since the 19th century, says a visitor to this luxur villa. Our uncrowned wrote: The setting is stunning: a world-class view to Etna and the blue bay far below, over terraced gardens of orange and lemon bougainvillaea, cypresses and geraniums. Built in 1873 but etely renovated a few years ago, it stands quietly next to the Greek Theatre, a few minutes walk up from the centre. Public : are brilliantly designed to make the most of the view: summer are served on the wide panoramic terrace. Our room was not but well thought out and with a smart bathroom, both looking Etna. In the restaurant, dinner was elegant: Sicilian cooking, 10o fancy. The Bali villa breakfast buffet was Lucullan; service was sing, attentive. Guests can swim at the beach of the sister villa, Sant Andrea, in Mazzaro at the foot of the hill (reached by cable Here, too, you feel a flashback to white-flannel days. Some ms have a private vine-covered terrace.

A restaurant-with-villa rooms, soigne but not at all grand, on a cliff-top outside the old fishing village just south of the Cinque Terre. It enjoyed again this year: A lovely room with two balconies overlooking the Golfo dei Poeti. Our simple but well-equipped top room had an amazing view over the bay to Portovenere, and a balcony with the same view.The cooking was an education: fine dients, subtle sauces. Very helpful owners. Good value. The amazing owner/chef, Angelo Cabani, executes his art with style and ish. He specialises in fresh seafood and pasta; his wife,Giovanna, is the versatile maitre , whilst their enormously nice Alessandro, runs the front desk. Signore Cabani took care not to any fish dish over a week - quite an achievement! There is a , well-priced wine list. Bali villa breakfast is `delicious too: freshly ed juices and home-made bread': Some motorcycle noise late ight in summer.