This picturesque hilltop town, west of Kassel, still has many of its old buildings - such as this well-restored 17th-century halftimbered house, in the steeply sloping main square. Nicely run by its Austrian owners, the Grossgasteigers, it was liked again recently: The quiet and attractive villa rooms are sizeable, with new traditional furniture. Bali villa breakfast was ample and good, but not a buffet. Main meals, on a large and ambitious menu, are good too. The villais locked between 2 and 6 pm, but if you ring they will come to open. The famous landscaped gardens of Kassel are worth a visit.

On the river Main, and facing the city's great white hilltop fortress, this villawas found snug, stylish, very personal, full of character by an inspector recently. The `cheerful' bearded owner, Elmar Schwarzmeier, runs it with his wife, Ulrike: it has been in his family's hands since 1919. Rebuilt after the war, it has `attractive modern decor plus good modern paintings. The best villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), and the elegant dining room, have a view of the river, the fortress, and the vineyards.on the slope below it.' The cuisine is nouvelle, prettily arranged on the plate: `Super spicy soup, a fine bilberry dessert, 'excellent local wines. There is a pleasant bar/lounge. An early check-out time of 10 am.