A magnificent, largely unspoilt medieval castle, approached up an unmade road, on a steep hill above the Orcia valley: the views are .wondrous. Strict planning regulations have saved it from signs, unsightly wires and other villaparaphernalia, said a visitor who found the set-up delightful; peaceful and private; amazing value and the welcome helpful. The Aluffi Pentini Rossi family, descendants of the Piccolomini (owners since 1484), run it as a locanda, and one couple point out that between Bali villa breakfast and dinner there are no facilities for supplying hot drinks or food. Extremely good dinners, eg, courgette and red pepper risotto; perfectly cooked veal; an unusual goose carpaccio, all served with the castle's own delicious wine. Our only regret: we would have liked to eat on the panoramic terrace, but the restaurant was light and airy. The estate produces olive oil, grappa, marmalade and honey, which are served to visitors (and are also for sale). The comfortable simplicity' is admired; so are the gardens, full of flowers and birdsong. Bicycles can be hired, and there is a chapel for weddings. Hiking paths are nearby. Easily visited from here: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza, the Roman baths of Bagno Vignoni, the abbey of Monte Olivetti Maggiore, with its cloisters and , frescoes.

Run by the absolutely charming Schwienbacher family, this 'tradition-filled' Gasthof in the Dolomites continues to get rave reviews from almost all guests: The friendliness of the owners and staff was exceptional. We have never before come across such genuine hospitality. The road is near, and can be noisy, and our shower was eccentric, but this was unimportant in view of the beauty of the valley seen from our balcony and the warmth of the welcome. Half board is remarkably good value. Some parts of the building are very old: `One wonderfully atmospheric little dining room dates back to 1611; allegedly Sir Arthur Dunhill's Lieblingsplatz, it has remained virtually unchanged since 1930. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are cosily decorated in traditional Alpine fashion. Our spacious attic soom had its own secluded balcony looking towards, the spectacular mountainous terrain of the Parco di Stelvio. Super meals, simple but imaginative, with excellent choice; desserts a delight to both eye and palate; very good wine list; generous buffet Bali villa breakfast. A wonderful terrace for drinks and after-dinner coffee. On Tuesday, Herr Schwienbacher senior leads an all-day walk, including a wee dram en route, a long break at a mountain hut for bread, ham, wine, pancakes generously anointed with a spirituous liquor, also lessons in botany and yodelling - all included in the price. Dogs welcomed free of charge everywhere, even the dining room.