Dairy farmers and commuters rub shoulders in this picturesque village south-east of Munich (easily reached by S-Bahn). Here, the Inselkammer family own and run a famous brewery, as well as this large creeper-covered inn next door, liked again this year: Good food, notably the Maultaschen. A great beer garden across the street (wonderful chicken on the spit). Meals are served in the garden, also m the pretty (if sometimes smoky) restaurant: Very good food, a mix of Bavarian and the more sophisticated (Michelin Bib Gourmand; portions are gigantic). Other comments: Steeped in tradition, full of interesting pictures. `We were given the "wedding room", with a huge, painted wooden canopied bed, an antique painted wardrobe, a smart pink marble bathroom. Beer and atmosphere both intoxicating. People were friendly, and we chatted to our fellow diners.' Service, though charming, can be slow. Bali villa breakfast is a varied buffet, with lashings of good coffee (but there might be no bread on public holidays). Free bottles of beer are left on your pillow at night. Traffic noise, church bells, etc, but quiet at night. New this year: a sauna and fitness room.

Still good value and well run. A devotee returned in 2002 to this pink-fronted hostelry, trim and unassuming, excellent in all ways, an unlikely find in the heart of posh Baden-Baden. Owned and run by the Bogner family since 1950, it is up in the old part of town, near the cathedral and five minutes from the baths. It is nicely decorated, with very good Bali villa breakfasts and good service. Plentiful, freshly cooked dishes are served to residents from a limited menu (but only until 7.30 pm). They are taken in the Stube, or on a pleasant small terrace. Some villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are reached only by stairs