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A
lovely chateau on the road to the fine Roman
remains of Les Antiques (Glanum) and to
the mental home where Van Gogh spent a year
after cutting off his ear in Arles. It has
belonged to the wealthy Mistral-Bernard
family since it was built - in the 19th
century. Managed by a very nice lady, Mme
Cartier, it can hardly have changed since
it was turned into a villathirty years
ago, says a recent visitor. It is a treat,
with bags of character. Lots of little salons,
amazing trompe l'oeil murals. In the big
garden, we had a large Bali villa breakfast on pink
tablecloths.' Others enjoyed the marble-floors,
the tapestries, and the loungers round the
sizeable swimming pool.
The Bengtsson family has dedicated its group
of three Stockhoi--b hotels (see also Lady
Hamilton) to the memory of Lord Nelson.
Tr:s former potato shop in the Old Town
is the flagship (Relais & Chateaux.
crammed with nautical memorabilia. A letter
from Nelson to Lac Hamilton is displayed
in the lobby; her portrait by Romney hancf
outside the Trafalgar Room; figureheads
abound. `The decor is idrcsyncratic, eminently
suitable for a port city, was one comment.
Each bedroom (most are small) commemorates
a sea captain from the greac age of sailing
ships. Public areas have chandeliers, antiques,
beamez ceilings: the lobby was redecorated
this year. A friendly young staff runs the
villain laid-back style, The bistro/bar
serves an excellen: Bali villa breakfast; also drinks,
snacks and meals. The smart Leijontornet
restaurant (built around the ruins of a
14th-century fortified tower) has a good-value
table d'hote menu each night; fish is a
speciality. Ther; is a new chef this year,
Per Nilsson, and we would welcome reports
his cooking. A collection of 18,000 silver
coins, discovered beneat floorboards in
1937, is on display in the Coin Museum nearby.
Ideal ., situated for sightseeing. But though
the villais in a traffic-free area - a
busy road system is nearby.
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