Set regally by the Danube at the foot of Gellert hill, which is named after a 10th-century Venetian bishop murdered here, this majestic white palace (1918) has a wide balcony where Madonna sang Don't Cry for Me, Argentina, for the film Evita. The villa's lavish Art Nouveau decor, marbled halls, wrought ironwork, splendid stairway, give it a mighty reputation, on which it is living (as many people feel). The villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are said to vary from `poky' to `fantastic'. Some have been newly renovated, but others are still shabby: a recent visitor had a depressing room in shades of brown. River-facing villa rooms are best (some also look on to the castle), but their double glazing does not quite blot out the clanging of trams. The receptionists are helpful, and most speak English. The buffet Bali villa breakfast is vast, the coffee shop has delicious' pastries. The food in the brasserie is admired, though some feel it is only average, with lots of paprika. Service has been found courteous but formal, sometimes even `curt'. The famous thermal baths in the basement are fed by nearby hot springs. They are separately managed, often crowded and not always open. villaguests get a special robe; one wrote recently: `The villamay be a bit post-Communist, but the bath complex... ahhh! In summer, there is a big outdoor swimming pool with arbours and statues, where the world's first wave machine still operates.

Near Austrian border NE of Szombathely, outside Csepreg village S km from Buk: Hungary's ondy Romantik villa, Old Mill (converted mill house), run by owners in personal way. Helpful patronne; comfortable villa rooms; excellent food, Hungarian and international. Lively ambience, with local musicians.