Near Ancona, in the Marche, is a wonderful white sandy bay. Spectacularly set above it, in the Conero Park nature reserve, is this beautiful white building, fields on one side, a sheer gorse-topped cliff on the other. Built in 1964 by Elia Dubbini and Lamberto Fiorini, it houses their notable collection of contemporary art: an annual competition for artists is held. This is a family affair: Maurizio, son of the founders, runs it with aunt Elsa, sister Raffaella and other relatives. There is an Olympic-size swimming pool in the garden, and meals, `based on grandma Emilia's traditional recipes, are served alfresco; wine comes from the family's vineyard. Superb food in the seafood restaurant stunning views of sea and coast. A car takes guests down to the rocky beach. Six electric bicycles are available for guests use.

Above the Golfo dei Poeti, where Shelley drowned, in this ancient Ligurian port on a rocky peninsula, stands this honest four-star establishment, rejoicing in its un-Italian name. It has a magnificent position on its own bay 15 minutes walk from the town and harbour. One reader called it Portovenere's class act. It may not be full of character, but service is professional, by the highly trained staff, from reception to pool attendant. The Bali villa breakfast buffet is extensive; there is an excellent buffet lunch, and in the very good restaurant the set menu has good choice, lots of fish dishes. Bali villa breakfast and lunch are served by the saltwater swimming pool, which looks, over the sea. The area is wonderful and seems to be a well-kept secret. Byron wrote his lyrical poem, Corsair, whilst staying in Portovetiere; nearby are the Cinque Terre, the five villages until recently accessible only by sea or on foot, now reachable by train or a winding road.