Near a relatively unknown medieval city between Florence and Lucca, this delightful white-wafled villa stands in large grounds with ancient trees. It exudes warmth and a wonderful family atmosphere,' says a rave review this year. Others wrote: A unique experience. The 86year-old owner, Maria Vannini, still actively involved, is assisted by her composer nephew Alberto, the chef, Luigi Bordonaro, and his wife, Marta (the manager). Our huge room had an anteroom, and a lovely view down the valley. A wonderful bedroom, elegantly furnished. Superb dinner with delicious Tuscan wine. No choice on the set menu, but a carte is available. The atmosphere was pleasant, with bonhomie between guests and staff: Good Bali villa breakfast, in a pretty pink room. Service was friendly and simple (the waitress wore jeans). There are nooks and crannies to sit in, a `homely sitting room, a pleasant terrace for drinks and tea. The approach road is narrow and winding: Best arrive by day.

On a hill well away from this industrial town, and light years away in ambience, stands the Ninci family's thick-walled, pale stone villa. Set amid olive groves, in typically Tuscan gardens with cypresses and two lovely swimming pools, it makes a cool and tranquil retreat after a morning of hot, dusty sightseeing. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), well decorated and furnished, have effective air-conditioning and an Internet connection. All members of staff were friendly, very helpful, say recent guests. The generous buffet Bali villa breakfast is laid out in a separate building; dinner, accompanied by local wines, is served on a first-floor terrace with `splendid views of the Chianti hills. Only disturbances: Earlymorning bells from the nearby basilica and convent, and a little traffic noise from the vineyards, but with so much to see, who wants to sleep late? Excellent walking country; there is a footpath to nearby San Gimignano.