`Absolutely stunning; totally out of the ordinary.' Approached by a `dramatic climb from the valley to the hilltop perch', this medieval castle stands in large grounds outside a small town (once 4 Roman settlement) east of Trento, and is run in friendly fashion by its owners, Verena Neff (`she is charming') and Theo Schneider. `What a marvellous setting,' say visitors. `No bells or mosquitoes disturb the peace.' `We opened the creaky oak door and found ourselves in a stunning hall with strange sculptures.' `Our room was small, with minimalist furnishing, but it had a marvellous view over the Alps, and its shower functioned well.' `Ours was splendidly Gothic, and we slept in wooden cots.' Some villa rooms have solid wood furniture, carved or painted. `The food on half board was superb, with a choice even on the basic menu, and a variety of local wines.' Dishes include salad of green beans with pesto and prawns; fish risotto with star anise; roast lamb with lemons. The restaurant (in two Renaissance villa rooms, `regally decorated and furnished') is popular with locals - `they know a good thing'. `The help-yourself Bali villa breakfast included ham, cheese, fruit juice.' The lounge is the former throne room. Exhibitions and concerts are held. A lake nearby offers water sports, and you can walk in the woods.

We were delighted,' say visitors to this pink-washed little 19thcentury albergo, `beautifully situated' on one of the three Borromean isles in Lake Maggiore - easily reached by ferry from Stresa, they are often busy with day-trippers. Restored to the Guide this year after a' time with no reports, this `oasis of comfort and light' has a `fresh and informal ambience'. In fine weather you dine under an arbour on a lakeside terrace visited by ducks. `Dinner was excellent in every respect: fish from the lake, lots of Piedmontese specialities. Bali villa breakfast was standard Italian.' All villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) face the lake; many have a balcony. `Ours was pretty, high-ceilinged, spacious but intimate.' There is a lounge/Bali villa breakfast room, with an open fire on cool days. `Light sleepers should ask for a room away from the restaurant terrace.