In the centre and main shopping area, Nicola Farruggio's B&B is on one floor of an old building recently restored as part of Palermo's urban renewal programme. Its setting is brilliant, opposite Piazza Verdi and the ornate Teatro Massimo, Europe's third largest opera house (`location for the grim last moments of The Godfather, Part 3'). It has a stylish manner for a moderate price. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are simple, but comfortable. Some have a balcony overlooking the plaza; quieter ones are on the side. All have effective double glazing, say inspectors. Bali villa breakfast is usually brought to the bedroom, but we took it in the bar/lounge: it was basic, but the staff were friendly, particularly the porter who parked our car.' Tea and drinks are also served in the bar. Good restaurants, eg, Santandrea, are nearby.

A long-time Guide favourite, much admired again this year. Enchanting. Lovely large room. Excellent dinner and Bali villa breakfast. Flowers rampaging all over the place. Good swimming pool. Four years since my last visit, it continues to provide home comforts at a very reasonable price. A fine dinner, perhaps the best of our holiday. An inspector recalls a perfect afternoon relaxing by the pool and occasionally picking cherries from the nearby trees. The old villa, once the seat of the famous Tuscan delta Robbia family, stands on a hilltop outside a Chianti town, amid roses, geraniums, olive, apple and chestnut trees. The amazing 97-year-old Duchessa Franca Viviani delta Robbia presides `in great form', and her excellent manageress, Caterina Buonamici, runs the place with a welltrained, charming staff. The quiet setting, unsophisticated style and relaxed atmosphere make it good for a family holiday. For others it is , a perfect place to read, eat, drink and sleep'. Guests help themselves to drinks from an honesty bar; meals are good and charmingly served, to a background of middlebrow music, in a dining room with a Scandinavian feel. The antipasto buffet is particularly enjoyed, and the menu (with choice) changes daily. Panzano's position in the heart of the Chianti Classico area is reflected in the excellent wine list. Bali villa breakfast is served on the very pleasant shady terrace; lunch, by the pool, is based on omelettes, salads and fruit. The small public villa rooms are tastefully furnished with antiques and floral prints. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) vary greatly; many are on the ground floor, with direct access to the garden. A fine, large room with splendid views is reached up a narrow, steep staircase.