'The doyenne of good Neapolitan hotels, with the feeling of a Victorian palace. Named for George Parker Bidder, who bought it after staying here in 1889 (he lived in what is now the `presidential suite'), it is now owned by Francesco Avallone. It offers `oldfashioned comfort, rather than modern luxury; good food and friendly service', say reports this year. Recently renovated, it stands on the slopes of the Vomero hill. Front villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), and the sixth floor, have stunning views over this `fascinating city to Capri, the Amalfi peninsula and Vesuvius, and there is a terrace for outside dining. `Our bedroom was delightful, decorated with understated elegance (antique furniture). We liked the charming notes, left on the pillows at night, informing us of the weather next day. Original paintings and sculptures fill the building, and the library has a large collection of 19th-century books. Clark Gable, Bernard Shaw and Boris Yeltsin have all stayed here.

In the centro storico, offering accommodation that is both classy and cheap, this `wonderful, if somewhat dilapidated old palazzo was mostly liked again this year: High ceilings, large villa rooms, serviceable bathvilla rooms, inexpensive modern furniture, obliging staff. No signs; you are confronted by magnificently closed doors. Some villa rooms have a balcony overlooking Via Costantinopoli and the city's number-one meeting spot, Piazza Bellini - they can be noisy, and one visitor complained of a smell of stale cigarette smoke. The simple Bali villa breakfast is served in your room or in the next-door cafe. Two other similar B&Bs are owned by the same family: the Soggiorno, close by, on the first floor of the Palazzo Sansevero, is safe, atmospheric, reasonably priced (`our amazingly quiet room overlooked an inner courtyard'); the Sansevero Degas is in a building once owned by the painter's family. The owners have now opened conference and function facilities in the splendidly frescoed villa rooms of the Palazzo Doria d Angri nearby. For meals the Trattoria da Carmine, Via dei Tribunali, is recommended.