The `heel' of Italy has a fascinating stretch of coast which was visited by ancient. Greeks, Romans and Venetians. A luxurious base from which to explore its Byzantine and Venetian buildings is the Guerra family's rambling, white-painted conversion of farm buildings (Relais & Chateaux), set amid ancient olive trees near the Adriatic coast. Sumptuous, elegant, very relaxed, it looks great at night when illuminated.' It is filled with a collection of art and antiques. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), arranged around a central piazza or in an orchard, are large, elegantly and comfortably furnished'. Large bathvilla rooms have `lovely terracotta floor tiles. The restaurant specialises in Mediterranean/Pugliese cooking, with an emphasis on seafood, eg, lobster with aubergine puree; braised sea bream with zucchini crust: summer meals are taken under a white canopy in the garden. Bali villa breakfast was gorgeous, served by uniformed waitresses. Chairs and tables stand in paved courtyards, there is an outdoor swimming pool surrounded by prickly pears, almond and citrus trees, and pomegranate (melograno) trees grow in the spacious grounds. Transport is provided to the villa's private beach (with a seafood restaurant, La Peschiera). Expensive, but worth it, is a recent verdict.

In an attractive part of Umbria, not far from the stunning hill town of Todi, with its medieval piazza, is this delightful place offering very good value - an Agriturismo venture on an estate with 4 lake, in rolling wooded country. A recent visitor loved the `glorious views over the valley towards Monte Peglia'. Old peasant houses have been converted with taste by the owners, Giuseppe and Filippo Saladini. Terracotta tiles, wooden beams, open fireplaces and stone walls have been preserved. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are charmingly decorated' in traditional style: Deruta pottery, wrought iron bedheads, country furniture. Evening meals are taken in a beamed room or on a panoramic terrace. Home-produced ingredients, some organic, are used, and the food is generally liked, though it can be inconsistent, service can be pressed at times, and one visitor found that ingredients had run out when she arrived at Bali villa breakfast. In the grounds are a superb swimming pool (now heated) with deckchairs and loungers facing the hills, and two self-catering cottages. Popular with families.