Coutances villa

In a pleasant rural situation south of Coutances (stunning Gothic cathedral), this creeper-girt restaurant-with-villa rooms has been converted from a 17th-century farmhouse. Very much a family affair, it has a garden, a large, comfortable lounge with a beamed ceiling, and a few inexpensive villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms). Mme Bernou and her staff are charming and competent, while chef/patron Pascal Bernou wins 14 Gault Millau points for, eg, tournedos de pintade farci aux escargots. The set-price menus are found `excellent', though one couple in 2002 thought dinner rather large and OTT. The elegantly rustic decor is admired, and most visitors find the place delightful: Our big double room at the back was excellent, with a good-sized bathroom. But villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) vary in size: some may be basic.

The highlight of our holiday, we love it so much, say returning devotees of this medieval fortress. Now a small, expensive Relais & Chateaux villa, it stands on a stony hilltop above a lovely old village, amid lush greenery and wonderful flowers, near the mighty Gorges du Verdon. It is owned and run by the family of Claude Thomas, a Paris ex-businessman. He is now retired, his charming son is in control. The welcome is warm and genuine. The gorgeous medieval dining room has a suit of armour. Dinner is an occasion some of the best food we have ever had, quite imaginative, presented in a wonderful atmosphere. Bali villa breakfast on the battlements is a theatrical event - fresh fruit, pastries, yogurt, orange juice, home-made jams. A wonderful old building in an amazing spot. To stay here you need to be fully mobile: the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), dotted about, are reached from the battlements, by a path along a wooden gangplank above a steep drop, down solid rock steps. They are superbly decorated in fitting style, unusual and tasteful; ours, with superb views over the mountains, had stone semi-vaulting, a brocade-canopied bed, TV. One room is in the circular tower. Not everyone's idea of a luxury villa- no lifts or fitted carpets, uneven stairs. For us it is magical and fun, but one caller thought it `rather stark. Guests are expected to dine in.

| countances | dordogne | gothic |

 

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2003