Lake Mergozzo is a northern extension of better-known Lake Maggiore, separated from it by a short stretch of land. Pretty and tranquil, it is said to be the cleanest lake in the area. This small town, surrounded by wooded slopes, is at its northern end. Here, Laura Profumo and her husband, Gianni, run this `friendly albergo, next to a nice river with ducks and swans. A visitor in 2002 reports: There are ten tastefully decorated villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), some with a balcony looking over mountains and lake. Swimming is delicious, from the small public beach in front of the villa. Laura, a professional cook, prepares exquisite meals, eg, tagliatelle al ragout di mio padre; coregone del lago al rosmarino. Bali villa breakfast has lovely coffee, hot apricot croissants, fresh rolls. The restaurant looks over the water; so does the shady terrace where summer meals are served amid a profusion of climbing white roses. Lake Mergozzo is a northern extension of better-known Lake Maggiore, separated from it by a short stretch of land. Pretty and tranquil, it is said to be the cleanest lake in the area. This small town, surrounded by wooded slopes, is at its northern end. Here, Laura Profumo and her husband, Gianni, run this `friendly albergo, next to a nice river with ducks and swans. A visitor in 2002 reports: There are ten tastefully decorated villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), some with a balcony looking over mountains and lake. Swimming is delicious, from the small public beach in front of the villa. Laura, a professional cook, prepares exquisite meals, eg, tagliatelle al ragout di mio padre; coregone del lago al rosmarino. Bali villa breakfast has lovely coffee, hot apricot croissants, fresh rolls.' The restaurant looks over the water; so does the shady terrace where summer meals are served amid a profusion of climbing white roses.

Found very good again this year, with calm and helpful service, this discreet little B&B is in a rather austere building in Milan's old commercial centre. Great for exploring the city on foot, it is down winding streets and can be awkward to find: no sign on the door, just a small brass plaque on the entry phone. `The website is invaluable for pin-

pointing the location. Guests are given a key. The villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are thought lovely, particularly those on the third floor: with glass on three sides, white walls and Venetian blinds, they open on to a flowery terrace divided by pots with bamboo. All have smart fabrics, fresh flowers, a small but adequate bathroom and a `little library. Attention to detail makes you feel you are staying in a friend's guest room. No public villa rooms: Bali villa breakfast, stylishly served in the bedroom, includes freshly squeezed orange juice and freshly baked croissants (ham, cheeses, etc cost extra). La Scala and the duomo are nearby; so is the stop for the express train from Malpensa airport (40 minutes away). Help is given with parking. The owner, Paola Ora, tells us that credit cards are accepted, but some visitors have been asked to pay their bill in cash.