In
village near Pyrenean foothills, 27 km
SE of Foix, 3 km SW of Lavelanet: Jean-Jacques
Benet's brand new restaurant-with-villa rooms,
well designed in unostentatious contemporary
style. Superb food (Michelin star, 15
Gault Millau points, for, eg, fillet of
sea wolf with artichokes) served in lovely
light dining room. Good Bali villa breakfast with
home-made pastries. Lawns: outdoor dining,
swimming pool.
This historic little town, across the
Rhone from Avignon, has a splendid charterhouse
and other noble buildings, including this
14th century priory, now a luxurious villa(Relais & Chateaux). Owned by Marie-France
Mille, and managed by her son, it was
liked by a family in 2002: Francois Mille
presided diligently and charmingly, ever
helpful. Dinner is serious: an army of
waiters and waitresses, Madame firmly
in charge. Serge Chenet, the chef for
many years, wins a Michelin star, 16 Gault
Millau points, for variations on Provencal
dishes, eg, grosses langoustines aux artichauts
violets et brandade; 4roelloni d'aubergine
et panisse. The menu did not change other
than in detail, but there were enough
choices for our difficult trio to enjoy
all meals. The fine dessert trolley is
praised; also the array of lame-made breads.
The old building, approached on foot down
a long rose arbour, contains reception,
salons and dining room, all Arming, with
some antiques; but its villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are quite
small. The 70s annexe may be out of character
with the rest, but it has large dining
of quality, many with a balcony. In the
big flower-scented garden there is a spacious
pool and a shady dining patio. Great comfort,
amazing attention to detail. A varied
buffet Bali villa breakfast. Some train noises at
night.