In the rather flat countryside of the Maremma, just outside this old market town, an 18th-century farmhouse has been turned into a guest house by a couple from northern Italy. She loves to entertain her visitors; he is a great cook, says a visitor in 2002. The location is great. A beautiful house, very peaceful, in a large garden with olive trees, vines and fruit trees (also a swimming pool and a spa bath). Dinner is communal, at a long table. Simple but charming villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), with beamed ceiling, fridge, etc, are on the first floor. Guests have access to the sulphur-water spas at nearby Saturnia; Etruscan and preEtruscan remains can be seen in surroundirig villages such as Sovana and Pitigliano; the sea is about 40 minutes' drive away to the west; Lake Bolsena is roughly the same distance to the east.

Traveller's tale villain France. The bedroom and bathroom were tiny, with paper-thin walls; the smallest sounds from next door were audible. The bath was small and the plug did not fit, so it was impossible to bath properly. Heating was regulated from reception, so the room was alternately very hot and very cold.