In a beautiful, quiet setting in the Garlenda valley, just inland from the Ligurian Riviera, is the Segre family's villa(Relais & Chateaux), found excellent again this year. `We love the area as well as the villa, one visitor said. Our room was uniquely and expensively furnished. Earlier praise: Delightful, with a true personal touch. The gardens are charming. The food was thought excellent too, although one reader considered it a little expensive. Accommodation is mostly in small suites, with a mix of antique and local country style. Some have a fireplace; all have a balcony facing gardens or vineyards. The comfortable, huge lounge has wonderful large windows.' Drinks can be taken alfresco in a canopied, candlelit area. The restaurant, which opens on to a terrace for summer dining under trees, serves modern versions of old Ligurian recipes and has a long list of pleasant local wines. The pool area has sumptuous sunbeds and a great drinks and snacks service. The golf course alongside sustains more damage from wild boars than from the few golfers.

Built in 1903, this former bishop's palace stands up a steep road above Lake Maggiore. It is not for those who like formulaic hotels. The decor is astonishing, one guest wrote. Many Art Nouveau features survive. There are sweetcorn and basil plants on the dining terrace parapets, tortoises laying eggs on the lawn, lizards darting everywhere we loved it. Our villa rooms were cool and spacious. Others, visiting during dreary autumn weather, thought the opposite, finding the interior run down and in need of refurbishment, and their room small and poorly furnished. And one family wrote of a booking not honoured: They had decided to close a week early.' But those in favour enjoyed the quirky charm, and write of the outstanding hospitality of the owners. Dario Anchisi is a lovely man; Elena, his wife, is a talented cook. The bedroom had no discernible style (pink taps), but it was clean and cool. There is a wild garden, with lush vegetation, and the good-sized, sparkly clean' swimming pool has panoramic views. Staff are attentive, prices are modest, and the building exudes peace and cool beauty. Many villa rooms, some with a balcony, face the lake; some have a small private garden. Good traditional fare is served, outdoors on fine days. We enjoyed sea perch and chestnut mushroom risotto; seconds are offered. The Bali villa breakfast buffet `is lavish'. Many visitors are German. Only an hour and a half from Malpensa airport but a world away.