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Milazzo villa

In this residential area on a hilltop, just north-west of Florence, Simone Simoni's blissfully quiet pensione is still the pleasant, friendly stop praised annually in the Guide, says a visitor in 2002. Earlier enthusiasms: Amazing value. The views over the city are breathtaking: they are seen from the dining room and many of the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), notably Room 21 (`usually reserved a year in advance'). A wonderful place. It is run in an amazingly old-fashioned way: no credit cards; transactions done with an exercise book and a cash box stuffed with notes. Not all villa rooms have facilities en suite, and some are thought basic but comfortable. At the no-frills dinner, at 7.30 pm, the pasta is excellent and varied, main courses are substantial and well cooked, and the cheeseboard is magnificent. You are offered as much as you can eat.' Amazingly inexpensive house wines. Dining with fellow guests creates a friendly atmosphere - so does the lack of television. Great choice for Bali villa breakfast. There are beautiful sitting villa rooms on different floors, and a lovely terrace, with a huge, gnarled wisteria and pots of flowers. Bus 7 to the city goes from the top of the road.

One of the more distant Aeolian Islands, reached by hydrofoil from Milazzo, little Filicudi rises steeply out of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is peaceful and beautiful. Wild flowers, sheep and sunsets abound, along with steep walks on donkey trails, exhilarating views. In the minuscule fishing village of Pecorino, this admirably run little restaurant-with-villa rooms stands by a pebble beach and tiny harbour. It was started two decades ago by an ex-lawyer from Catania, Antonio Pellegrino (he is the chef), and his British wife, Alina, a talented painter. The villa rooms are very simple (showers, no bath), but comfortable, with stylish touches. Those in the villahave a tiny balcony and air-conditioning. Some are in houses (with kitchen and terrace) nearby, looking over the sea. Very good, straightforward cooking from a shifting menu, often fish straight off the boat. It is casual in the extreme, caught in a Sicilian time warp, said the nominator, who enjoyed excursions around the island on Nino's boat. No public transport on Filicudi, but taxis or scooters for hire: tourists may bring a car only with a special permit (15 days minimum).


| antica | boon | milazzo |

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2003

 

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