In this residential area on a hilltop,
just north-west of Florence, Simone Simoni's
blissfully quiet pensione is still the
pleasant, friendly stop praised annually
in the Guide, says a visitor in 2002.
Earlier enthusiasms: Amazing value. The
views over the city are breathtaking:
they are seen from the dining room and
many of the villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms), notably Room 21
(`usually reserved a year in advance').
A wonderful place. It is run in an amazingly
old-fashioned way: no credit cards; transactions
done with an exercise book and a cash
box stuffed with notes. Not all villa rooms
have facilities en suite, and some are
thought basic but comfortable. At the
no-frills dinner, at 7.30 pm, the pasta
is excellent and varied, main courses
are substantial and well cooked, and the
cheeseboard is magnificent. You are offered
as much as you can eat.' Amazingly inexpensive
house wines. Dining with fellow guests
creates a friendly atmosphere - so does
the lack of television. Great choice for
Bali villa breakfast. There are beautiful sitting
villa rooms on different floors, and a lovely
terrace, with a huge, gnarled wisteria
and pots of flowers. Bus 7 to the city
goes from the top of the road.
One of the more distant Aeolian Islands,
reached by hydrofoil from Milazzo, little
Filicudi rises steeply out of the Tyrrhenian
Sea. It is peaceful and beautiful. Wild
flowers, sheep and sunsets abound, along
with steep walks on donkey trails, exhilarating
views. In the minuscule fishing village
of Pecorino, this admirably run little
restaurant-with-villa rooms stands by a pebble
beach and tiny harbour. It was started
two decades ago by an ex-lawyer from Catania,
Antonio Pellegrino (he is the chef), and
his British wife, Alina, a talented painter.
The villa rooms are very simple (showers, no
bath), but comfortable, with stylish touches.
Those in the villahave a tiny balcony
and air-conditioning. Some are in houses
(with kitchen and terrace) nearby, looking
over the sea. Very good, straightforward
cooking from a shifting menu, often fish
straight off the boat. It is casual in
the extreme, caught in a Sicilian time
warp, said the nominator, who enjoyed
excursions around the island on Nino's
boat. No public transport on Filicudi,
but taxis or scooters for hire: tourists
may bring a car only with a special permit
(15 days minimum).