In a fruit-growing region a short drive north from Bologna, this interesting little town makes a good base for exploring Emilia Romagna and the Veneto. And Filippo Orlandini's intimate little B&B, down a small street near the duomo and the severe-looking Castello Estense, is a model of an elegant town house lodging, says a recent visitor. Given the intimacy of such a small place, you should be ready for a good deal of personal contact, adds another. Bali villa breakfasts, in a shady courtyard, include home-made bread and jams, a special cake baked daily. Our room was small, but well equipped'; others are larger. Some villa rooms have antiques. Internet access is new this year, and bicycles are available free of charge. Recommended restaurants: Antica Trattoria Volano (local specialities), Quel Giovedi Fantastico (for fish). There is a 17th-century room for conferences, concerts, etc.

A short walk from the historic centre of this small medieval city between Bologna and Padua, this new villais in a 16th-century listed building. With antiques, beamed ceilings, French tapestries, a monumental staircase and exceedingly helpful staff, it is strongly recommended' this year. Suites are named after famous former ; visitors to the house; villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are called after their earlier use (stable, oliive store, etc). Ours were spacious, spotless with efficient plumbing. A disabled visitor was well looked after. Bali villa breakfast is served on a pleasant lawn or in an intimate room: exquisite croissants and bread; coffee not as good. No restaurant plenty nearby, including that of. the sumptuous sister villa, the Duchessa Isabella (Relais & Chateaux). There is a fitness centre, and a horse and carriage for excursions. The surrounding area is on the flat, ideal for wheelchairs.