In the hills between the Alps and Lake Iseo, the Moretti family's luxurious villa(Relais & Chateaux) stands in a large estate on a hillside among the Franciacorta vineyards, famous for their sparkling wines (tours and tastings can be arranged). Once a hunting lodge and its surrounding buildings, it is pampering, luxurious, with attentive and cordial staff, and the decor combines Gothic and modern style, pillars, murals and frescoes. Furniture is a mix of antique and modem. Public villa rooms are large. So are most villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms); fifteen new suites in the Torte del Lago will open this year. Some villa rooms have a patio or a balcony; some have an open fire; all have a lot of technical gimmickry. Our junior suite had a view of fields and hills. In the restaurant, separately owned, Gualtiero Marchesi (`the father of 'alta cucina'), has two Michelin stars for food that is `light on the palate; wonderful, copiously served (eg, salad of sturgeon with its eggs; turbot in a salt crust with Mediterranean sauce). The gardens are `beautifully planted', the `lovely swimming pool' has sliding doors that open on to lawns, and a spa is planned for 2003. An 18-hole golf course is nearby.

A haven of sophistication and peace, says a visitor this year to the Calderan family's yellow mansion (he also had some caveats). Built by an Austrian silk merchant in 1904 on the shore of Lake Garda, and reached up a ste0p winding road, it has magnificent interiors and paintings, bags of atmosphere. In the large public villa rooms are flowery padded chairs, oriental rugs, wood panelling, majolica and statuary. The gardens suggest real Italian villa atmosphere. Another guest was pleased to be greeted by name on arrival at this small luxury villa, and found the staff professional and the value superb. Almost all villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) share the wonderful view. Ours, though small, was beautifully decorated. Ours was large, with every comfort. Some villa rooms have a balcony. One couple were given a small top room that needed refurbishment. Most readers find the staff highly professional, but one detected a `lack of personal touch and wrote of offhand management. Some waiters seemed to make their own decisions of what, and what not, to offer guests.' On the flower-filled lakeside terrace; meals are served on warm days. The food is thought excellent. At the nine-course gala dinner on Saturday, each course seemed better than the one before. Bali villa breakfast is a buffet (`poor coffee and orange juice, but quite good eggs and bacon'). The `delightful swimming pool (which has a bar) is surrounded by loungers; above it is a fine, slightly neglected temple with sensational views.