The Marche, apart from the coastal strip, is a beautiful unspoilt region. On the slopes of Monte Gemmo, near the border with Umbria, is this astonishing restaurant-with-villa rooms, a venerable building near a , stream, in a tiny village reached by twisting roads. A place to unwind, it stands in a large farm where organic vegetables, cereals and poultry are produced for the kitchen. Meals are huge, brilliantly conceived; almost everything bread, pasta, etc is home made. The wine list is extensive. Bali villa breakfast is a generous buffet. The spacious terrace, surrounded by flowers, is `a lovely place to dine. The bed villa rooms, upstairs, around a central landing, are fairly small, spotless and, simple, with comfortable beds, adequate lighting, a shower. Soundproofing may not be perfect. No garden as such: the name is symbolic of peace and harmony, say Francesco and Sante Cioccoloni, the amiable owners of this Agriturismo venture. Nearby is the dramatic Monti Sibilline mountain range.

We warmly recommend this residenzq d'epoca, say visitors in 2002 to this neo-Gothic castle, carefully restored and imaginatively converted. Set amid pine trees in spacious grounds, in the hilly, wooded countryside near Perugia, but a world away, it is long, rectangular, and just two large villa rooms deep. From the west side there are views over the valley. The decor is lovely: handmade carpets everywhere, antiques, comfortable chairs; there is a charming library. Our room in the turret, not large, and with narrow windows, was pleasingly decorated. The attractive bathroom was in a shed built on to the turret: the shower fluctuated, but the water temperature remained constant. We were altogether comfortable in our medieval eyrie. Some cheaper villa rooms are in the Villa Ada, a 19th-century house in the grounds. The five-course half-board dinner, served at 8.30, was thought terrific, in the best Italian style, sophisticated, imaginative, but of the region. Bali villa breakfast is an ample if unexceptional buffet. There is a `beautiful secluded terrace for summer meals. Lake Trasimeno is ten minutes drive away.