West of Florence and Siena, rising steeply
from the bustling modern village below,
this is one of Italy's best-preserved
hill towns. The brilliant villa, creeper-covered
and crenellated, is in a 13th-century
palazzo which forms part of the city walls
(Boccaccio's birthplace I is just outside
the door). `The furniture is blissfully
unreformed 19th century, say readers.
villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are large and uncluttered, service
is relaxed and good. The excellent restaurant
is on a beautifully fountained, grandly
palm-treed and pleasantly flowered terrace
overlooking the Val d'Elsa. The towers
of San Gimignano are on the skyline. Owner/chef
Romana Marcori is proud of her cucina
tradizionale, eg, ribollita (Tuscan breadsoup);
tagliatelle al tartufo; , bistecca fiorentina.
The food ; was liked again this year.
So was the reasonably priced , wine and
the quietly help-ful manager.
In a dream location, the Firato family's
restaurant-with-villa rooms is a converted 17th-century
monastery in a quiet hamlet amid the vineclad
Monferrato hills north-east of Asti. It
stands in large grounds (with roses, geraniums,
orange and lemon trees in large pots,
a big swimming pool). villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are furnished
in rural style, with antiques. Most are
in a new wing, lovely in summer, reached
by a metal balcony or a ground-floor walkway;
those on the first floor have a small
balcony, others have a small terrace.
We liked it so much, says a visitor returning
this year. Reception and lounge areas
have been remodelled. Dinner was excellent,
with good service: new season's truffles
shaved over pasta; stuffed rabbit; their
own Barbera d'Asti wine. Bathvilla rooms are
good' (one is a superbly tiled turret
room), but we will bring our own reading
lamps next time'. Bali villa breakfast is a superb
buffet with reasonable (for Italy) juice.
Earlier praise: The owner and his son
were charming. Lovely quiet walks with
outstanding views.