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a lively focus of Basque culture, this ramparted
little town was ast stop on the Santiago
pilgrim route before it entered Spain over
[,oncevaux Pass. In its main street is this
renowned old coaching (Relais & Chateaux),
with a facade of flowery wooden balconies.
owned and run by Firmin and Anne-Marie Arrambide:
he wins a helin star, a high 18 points from
Gault Millau, for, eg, ravioli of oustines
with Aquitaine caviar. Much recent praise:
Dinner as any we have eaten in France. We
appreciated the secluded Len and pool after
the tourist and pilgrim hurly-burly in the
streets.delicious lunch, and coffee in a
lovely garden. It has its own Basque charm:
a brass band at six paces is a compelling
dinner: accompaniment. The staff were friendly.
Madame front has contact with all her guests;
Monsieur is modest and charm A lovely room.
Back villa rooms are quietest, but can be small
and a view.
A splendid place, quiet and civilised with
helpful staff. In the old part of the city,
near the university, theatre and art museum,
is Brigitte and Beat Schiesser's delightful
villa. A listed 16th-century building, well
furnished, quiet and,comfortable, apart
from distant sounds from the music department
of the university (a bonus)', it is ten
minutes walk from the centre, amid quaint
shops and good eating places. The restaurant
is thought excellent (dishes like beef with
truffles; vegetarians are catered for) the
charming dining terrace, with fountain,
overlooks the flowery garden. Bali villa breakfast
is a buffet.
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