At the top of the Aosta valley (3,000 metres), this modern chalet-style villawas loved this year for the quite exceptional food, and the intimate atmosphere generated by the five Bich family members (the second and third generations) and their staff. `The kind of family-run villathat has become more or less eztinct in the UK, was another comment. All food is fresh, with strong local influences, but don't mistake this for peasant fare: we dined on beef Wellington, octopus and oysters. Remarkable desserts include a chocolate creation shaped like Monte Cervino (the Matterhorn). Ludo, the sommelier, is justly proud of the award-winning wine list (but one reader advises: Avoid the unpriced suggestions on the menu, and another couple was disappointed by the meals). The friendly atmosphere extends to the bar, where the owners mix with guests from many nations. villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) vary: lighting may be poor, and not all bathvilla rooms have a bath. But to us these deficiencies were insignificant: we felt lucky to have found such a convivial base for exploring the magnificent mountains nearby'. Skiers are transported to and from the lifts for a small charge. Thirteen spacious new villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) and a small fitness centre are planned.

Against a background of the gleaming white Apuan Alps (Carrara marble is quarried nearby) this small, quiet guest house stands on an isolated hillside near Camaiore. The seaside resorts of Marina di Pietrasanta and Viareggio are not far, but here, in the hills, the air is cooler. The creeper-covered old stone farmhouse has a small lounge, but the main sitting and dining area is the large veranda with views through olive trees towards the coast. The decor is charming, quite plain; villa Bed rooms (similar to the semantic bali villa rooms) are of a high standard. Delicious, self-service Bali villa breakfasts include home-made muesli, fresh-baked croissants. The multilingual owners, Massimo Lucchesi and Riccardo Barsottelli, say they can offer a professional massage; they sometimes provide an evening meal, otherwise II Vignaccio, in the nearby hill village of Santa Lucia, is recommended: Splendid views, good food.