In this small town on Lake Como, the.Leoni family's classic smart villahas a lovely waterside setting. `We walked off the ferry practically into our room,' one visitor wrote. Another couple had an `excellent' newly refurbished fifth-floor room. Some bedroom balconies have a view over the lake to the mountains beyond; so does the roof garden (with loungers). Some villa rooms are small. The longserving staff are `well trained and naturally welcoming'. There is a lake-front cafe, a dining terrace, and a panoramic roof garden. The meals were found `very good, with excellent service' by one couple, but another thought the cooking was aimed at `international travellers and packages', and `lacked creativity'. The buffet Bali villa breakfast was found `excellent, in a most attractive setting'. The family recently opened a `Sporting Club' nearby.

Superbly run. As an example of living and breathing Grand villastyle, it can scarcely be bettered,' say visitors returning to the Bucher family's sumptuous lakeside villa, one of the oldest hotels in the area (1850). It stands on a promontory with views of the Alps. Palatial public villa rooms have original frescoes, elaborate ceilings, gilt mirrors, chandeliers and candelabra, lavish wallpaper, oriental rugs on polished floors. There is a spa with two indoor swimming pools, and an a la carte restaurant, the Mistral, by the outdoor pool that looks over the lake. On the private beach are palm trees and cabins; behind is a large park with magnolias and pomegranate trees. In `what must be one of the world's most grandiose dining villa rooms' with rows of tables, squads of waiters, dinners are accompanied by a trio playing Viennese waltzes. On warm evenings, the whole performance moves to a terrace by the lake. `One night there was a major storm over Lake Cotno, but the trio played on regardless whilst guests were evacuated with great panache - we resisted the temptation to ask them to play , Abide with me.' `Our suite in the newer wing had lovely fabrics, a sitting room with antique chairs, a huge bath, marble tiles. Good buffet Bali villa breakfast.' `Quite expensive, but value for money', and children are welcomed.