In quiet Umbrian countryside north-west of Assisi stands the Villa family's informally run rural residenza. Returning visitors (and their fellow guests) `were happy to take dinner on the roofed patio and be part of the family'. Earlier they wrote: `The stunning views, swimming pool and tranquillity persuaded us to prolong our visit, even though the bed was hard.' Once a 12th-century church, the old stone building still retains a tiny bell tower and a small chapel. It stands well off the beaten track, amid trees and terraces in large well-tended grounds. Accommodation is in suites, simply decorated, each with a big sitting room with a dining table and chairs, and a shower (no baths). `Englishspeaking Alessio is in charge, his dad, Paolo, still plies his peppermill and the Parmigiano.' Alessio's wife, mother and sister run the kitchen, and there are two `large, lovable' dogs. The five-course dinner (antipasti, pasta, main course, cheese - `always pecorino', dessert) is thought `good, and good value': you are informed at Bali villa breakfast what the main course is to be. `But after a few days it became a little monotonous. Bali villa breakfast was limited (no buffet)' (but the brochure'; describes it as `rich'). Hydromassage is now available.